How to Test a Washing Machine Drain Pump With a Multimeter

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The person typing how to test a washing machine drain pump with a multimeter wants to know whether a washer that will not drain has a dead drain pump motor. You can check the pump’s motor windings with a multimeter set to resistance, as long as the washer is unplugged and you disconnect the pump from the wiring before you measure. An open reading points to a broken winding. A reading that stays near zero points to a short. Neither reading tells you the exact pass range for your model, which the sources we opened do not give.

Quick answer

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet before you touch the pump or its wires.
Disconnect the pump’s wire connector, then set the meter to resistance (Ω) and touch the probes to the two pump motor terminals.
OL on the display means the meter sees an open path, which can mean a broken motor winding.
A reading near zero between the two terminals suggests a short. Compare any number you get with the service data for your exact model.

Why the drain pump is a good first check

A washer that fills and agitates but leaves water in the drum often has a drain problem. The drain pump is a small motor that pushes water out through the drain hose. Before you buy a pump, a resistance check can show whether the motor windings still form a complete path. It cannot prove the pump is healthy in every way. A clogged filter, a kinked drain hose, a worn impeller, or a faulty control board can also stop drainage while the motor still reads normally.

Keep the meter’s job in mind. A multimeter in resistance mode measures the resistance between two points. It does not measure the flow of water or the pump’s output, and it does not tell you whether the pump is spinning under load.

Before you start: safety comes first

A washer runs on household power, and the pump sits near wiring that is connected to the outlet. Fluke’s guide to resistance measurement says to turn off circuit power before taking a reading, and it adds that any capacitor in the circuit should be discharged first. Apply that rule here by pulling the plug out of the wall. Do not rely on the washer’s power switch or its control panel to cut power to the pump.

Fluke’s continuity guide puts the same idea another way: “With the circuit de-energized, connect the test leads across the component being tested.” A meter in resistance or continuity mode is built for dead circuits. If you put it on a live circuit, you risk damage to the meter and you get no useful reading.

Two more rules from the Fluke guide apply. Always disconnect the test leads before opening the meter’s case or battery door, and check the meter’s own safety rating before you use it on higher-voltage equipment. Testing a washer pump uses only the low-voltage resistance function, but the washer’s wiring is still household wiring. If the work needs you to open the cabinet, handle the wiring behind the control panel, or check the connector while the washer is powered, stop and call a qualified appliance technician.

What you need

A digital multimeter with a resistance (Ω) function and a COM and VΩ jack.
The washer’s service manual or the wiring diagram for your model number.
A phone camera, so you can photograph the connector before you unplug it.
Basic hand tools to remove the pump cover or its mounting screws.

Step-by-step: test the drain pump

Step 1: Unplug the washer and confirm it is dead

Pull the plug from the outlet and leave it out. Move the washer far enough from the wall to reach the back or the bottom panel. Wait until the control panel is fully off. Do not run a drain cycle to see whether the pump works, because that test needs power and is a different procedure.

Step 2: Reach the pump and photograph the wiring

Drain pumps sit at the bottom of the washer, often behind a front kick panel or a removable cover. The location depends on the brand and model, so use the service manual to find the pump. Before you disconnect anything, photograph the connector and the wire colors. Pump connectors are often keyed, but a photo is a cheap record.

Step 3: Disconnect the pump from the wiring

Release the connector and separate it from the pump’s terminals. A reading taken with the pump still wired into the washer can show a path that runs through other parts of the circuit, not through the motor alone. Fluke’s resistance guide says that other parallel paths affect the reading, and that it is best to remove the component from the circuit, or at least lift one lead, when you can.

Step 4: Set the meter

Plug the black lead into COM and the red lead into the VΩ jack. Turn the dial to the resistance (Ω) setting. Fluke’s guide notes that the meter starts measuring as soon as it enters resistance mode, so the display should show OL when the leads touch nothing. If your meter combines continuity and resistance, press the mode button until the Ω symbol is shown.

Step 5: Measure across the pump motor terminals

Touch one probe to each motor terminal and hold both steady for a few seconds while the display settles. Keep your fingers off the metal tips. Fluke notes that the human body can form a parallel path that lowers the reading. Write down what the display shows.

Step 6: Read the result

An OL reading means the meter does not see a complete path through the motor. Fluke’s continuity guide says that when a circuit is open, the meter does not beep. In a pump, that usually means a broken winding or a bad internal connection, and the pump is a likely replacement. A reading that is near zero suggests a short between the windings. In both cases, check the number against the spec for your model before you decide, because the sources we opened do not give a resistance value for any washer pump.

Step 7: Check the connector and the wires

Look at the connector and the wires for burned spots, melted plastic, or green corrosion. A loose or corroded terminal can give a poor reading or no power at the pump even when the motor is good. Clean a corroded terminal before you decide the pump has failed.

Step 8: Reassemble the washer

Reconnect the pump wires to the same terminals using your photo, replace the cover, and put the washer back in position. Plug it in only after every cover is back on.

Reading the result

OL or no response: The motor path is open. The pump may be bad, but check the connector and wiring first.
Near zero: The windings may be shorted. Compare with the service data before replacing anything.
A steady reading in the range listed for your model: The motor winding looks intact. The fault may be in the filter, the hose, the impeller, the timer, or the control board.

A reading that looks normal does not prove the pump will move water. A pump can read correctly and still be jammed by lint or a foreign object.

Other causes to check before you buy a pump

A washer that does not drain has several common causes, and a multimeter check covers only one of them. Clean the drain filter first, if your model has one, and remove any lint or small items that could block the pump. Check the drain hose for a kink or a clog. Make sure the hose outlet is not lower than the drum in a way that causes siphoning, and check that the hose is not sitting in a sink that blocks flow. These checks do not need a meter and take little time.

If the pump motor reads correctly and the drain hose is clear, the next question is whether the pump is receiving power during a drain cycle. That is a live voltage check, and the Fluke guide does not cover live testing. Leave that step to a qualified technician unless you have the training and the service manual for the exact model.

Mistakes to avoid

Testing with the plug in. Resistance mode is for dead circuits. A live test can damage the meter and gives no useful answer.
Testing with the pump still wired in. Other parts of the circuit can create a false path, so disconnect the pump or lift a lead.
Buying a pump from a single reading. Compare the number with the service data for your model, and check the filter and hose first.
Working near the wiring while the washer is powered. Unplug first, every time.

When to call a technician

Call a licensed appliance technician if the washer has burned wiring, if the connector is damaged in a way you cannot repair, or if you need to check voltage at the pump while the washer is running. Also call for help if the pump reads correctly and the washer still does not drain, because the fault may be in the control board or the timer.

How we chose

This guide covers the method, not a product. We used three Fluke Learn pages on resistance, continuity, and multimeter use, all opened on 2026-10-27, and we looked for the general steps they describe for dead circuits. We did not select any appliance part on performance, and we did not rank parts. The sources we opened do not cover appliance-specific resistance values, so the steps here stop at what the meter can show and point you to the service data for your model.

What we could not verify

The resistance value that counts as normal for any washer drain pump. The sources we opened do not list one.
The location of the pump and its connector in any specific brand or model.
Voltage at the pump during a drain cycle. The sources we opened do not cover live appliance testing.

FAQ

Can I test a drain pump without taking it out of the washer?

Often yes, if you can reach the two pump terminals. Unplug the washer, disconnect the connector, and measure across the pump terminals. If you cannot reach them safely, remove the pump.

What does OL mean on the display?

OL means the meter reads an open circuit or a resistance above its range. Fluke’s guide says the display shows OL when the leads are not connected to a complete path.

Why does my reading change when I touch the probes?

Your body can form a parallel path, and loose probe contact can make the reading jump. Hold the probes on clean metal and keep your fingers off the tips.

Should I replace the pump if the reading is near zero?

Check the service data for your model first. A near-zero reading suggests a short, but the sources we opened do not give a pass value for this part.

Can a multimeter tell me whether the pump is strong enough?

No. A multimeter checks the electrical path through the motor. It does not measure flow or pressure.

Bottom line

Unplug the washer, disconnect the pump, and measure its terminals in resistance mode. An open reading or a near-zero reading tells you to check further, and the service data for your model tells you what normal looks like.

Related guides

Sources

Fluke, “How to Measure Resistance with a Digital Multimeter” https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-measure-resistance, opened 2026-10-27.
Fluke, “How to Test for Continuity” https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity, opened 2026-10-27.
Fluke, “How to Use a Multimeter: A Comprehensive Guide” https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/maintenance-monitoring/how-to-use-a-multimeter-guide, opened 2026-10-27.