How to Test a Dishwasher Heating Element With a Multimeter

How to Test a Dishwasher Heating Element With a Multimeter

How to Test a Dishwasher Heating Element With a Multimeter

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The person typing how to test a dishwasher heating element with a multimeter wants to know whether a dishwasher that leaves dishes wet or cool has a failed heating element. A multimeter in ohms or continuity mode can check the element on an unplugged dishwasher and show whether the heater has a complete electrical path. This guide covers the steps, what an open reading means, and what the sources we opened do not say about your model’s element.

Quick answer

  • Unplug the dishwasher and shut off the power at the outlet before you touch any element wire.
  • Disconnect the element’s terminals, set the meter to ohms or continuity, and touch one probe to each terminal.
  • A complete path (a beep or a low reading) means the element is not open. An OL or silent reading means the path is open, which points to a failed element.
  • Check the other heating-circuit parts too, because a good element does not rule out a faulty thermal device or wiring.

Safety first

A dishwasher’s heating element draws significant current, and its wiring connects to household power. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recall of gas dryers over a short circuit in the wiring that could shock people is a reminder that appliance wiring can be dangerous, and the recall remedy told owners to unplug the appliance and call for an inspection. Turn off the dishwasher at the outlet or breaker and confirm it is dead before you open the tub or touch a terminal.

Fluke’s guide to continuity testing says that testing should be done with the circuit de-energized: “With the circuit de-energized, connect the test leads across the component being tested.” A meter in ohms or continuity mode should not be connected to a live circuit, and a powered test can damage the meter.

If the dishwasher has been near water and you see discoloration or scorch marks on the wiring, stop and call a licensed appliance technician. Work on the outlet, the breaker, or the building wiring belongs to a licensed electrician.

What a heater reading tells you

A heating element is a resistance heater. Current passes through its wire and produces heat, and an open element has a break in that wire. Fluke defines continuity as “the presence of a complete path for current flow,” and says a continuity test sends “a small current through the circuit to measure resistance.” An element with a complete path reads a low resistance. An element with a break reads OL or shows no beep.

The sources we opened do not give the resistance of any specific dishwasher element, and a low reading does not show the element heats to the right temperature. What the meter can show is whether the path is open.

Step-by-step: test the heating element

Step 1: Unplug the dishwasher

Disconnect the power at the outlet or the breaker, then confirm the control panel is dark. Pull the dishwasher out far enough to reach the underside, where the heater is usually mounted in the sump area.

Step 2: Access the element

The element is usually at the bottom of the tub or under a cover. Access differs by brand and model, so use the service manual or the wiring diagram for your model. Remove the lower cover or rack support only as far as the manual shows.

Step 3: Label and disconnect the element terminals

Take a photo of the terminals and the wire positions before you disconnect anything. Remove the wires one at a time, and keep the terminal order the same. Removing the wires isolates the element so the reading reflects only the element.

Step 4: Set the meter

Plug the black lead into COM and the red lead into the VΩ jack. Turn the dial to ohms or continuity. Fluke notes that continuity mode is often combined with the resistance (Ω) function, and some meters need a button press to turn on the beeper. Confirm the display.

Step 5: Measure across the element

Touch one probe to each element terminal and hold the probes steady. A beep or a low reading means the path is complete. An OL reading or no beep means the path is open. If the element has more than one heater section, test each section against the diagram.

Step 6: Check the other heating-circuit parts

A dishwasher heating circuit can include thermal devices, a thermostat, and wiring. Test those parts with their wires disconnected, the same way you tested the element. The sources we opened do not say which devices your model uses, so the wiring diagram is the reference for that. A good element with an open thermal device will still not heat.

Step 7: Reassemble

Reconnect the wires to their original terminals, replace the cover, and restore power only after the dishwasher is closed up.

Reading the result

  • Complete path on the element: The element is not open. Check the thermal devices, the wiring, and the control signal before you replace the element.
  • OL or silent on the element: The path is open. Confirm the terminals are clean and tight, then consider replacing the element.
  • Complete path where the diagram shows none: Re-check the wiring for a short or a wrong connection.

Why the element test does not settle everything

A dishwasher can fail to dry or heat for reasons outside the element, such as a thermal device, a temperature sensor, the wiring harness, or the control board. The continuity test checks the element’s electrical path only.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Testing with the power on. Ohms and continuity modes are for dead circuits.
  • Testing with the wires attached. Other parts of the circuit can create a false path around the element.
  • Replacing the element without checking the other heating parts. A good element can look bad when a thermal device is open.
  • Bypassing a thermal device. Jumpering a safety device removes its protection.

When to call a technician

Call a licensed appliance technician if the element tests correctly but the dishwasher still does not heat, if the terminals are discolored, or if you cannot reach the element safely. Work on the outlet, breaker, or building wiring goes to a licensed electrician.

How we chose

This guide relies on three sources we opened on 2026-10-27: two Fluke pages on continuity testing and a 2008 CPSC recall notice about a shock hazard in gas dryer wiring. We chose the Fluke pages for their plain explanation of continuity and resistance measurement, and the CPSC notice as an official source on appliance electrical hazards. We did not use retail parts pages or forums for technical claims.

What we could not verify

  • The resistance value for any specific dishwasher heating element. The sources we opened do not state one.
  • The element location, access route, and thermal device layout for any brand or model.
  • Whether a given element failure is the cause of a dishwasher that does not heat.

FAQ

Can I test the element while the dishwasher is plugged in?

No. Turn off the power at the outlet or breaker first. Fluke’s guidance calls for a de-energized circuit.

What does a beep mean on the element?

A beep means the meter found a complete path through the element. Fluke describes continuity as the presence of a complete path for current flow.

What does OL mean?

OL usually means the reading is over the meter’s range, which on an open circuit means no complete path. An open element shows OL or no beep.

What resistance should a good element show?

The sources we opened do not give a figure for any dishwasher element. Use the service data for your model.

Should I check anything besides the element?

Yes. Check the thermal devices, the temperature sensor if your model has one, and the wiring. A good element can still leave the dishwasher unheated.

Is this a job I can do myself?

Testing the element with the dishwasher unplugged is a reasonable step for a careful owner using the model manual. Outlet, breaker, and building wiring are outside this guide and need a licensed electrician.

Bottom line

Turn off the power, isolate the element, and read it in ohms or continuity mode. An open reading means the element has failed or a path is broken. A complete path means you should check the thermal devices and wiring before you buy a new element.

For a broader look at the meter, see our guide to voltage testers for home use. Our non-contact voltage tester guide explains how those tools fit into a safe check before you open an appliance.

Sources

  • Fluke, “A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter”: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity (opened 2026-10-27)
  • Fluke, “What is Continuity?”: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-continuity (opened 2026-10-27)
  • U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, “General Electric Recalls Gas Dryers Due to Shock Hazard” (February 11, 2008): https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2008/general-electric-recalls-gas-dryers-due-to-shock-hazard (opened 2026-10-27)

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