How to Check a Dryer Igniter With a Multimeter

How to Check a Dryer Igniter With a Multimeter

ByKen

How to Check a Dryer Igniter With a Multimeter

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The person typing how to check a dryer igniter with a multimeter wants to know whether the igniter is why a gas dryer runs but does not heat. The direct answer: with the dryer unplugged and the gas supply shut off, disconnect the igniter, then use continuity or ohms mode to see whether the igniter element forms a complete path. An open reading (OL) points to a failed igniter. A closed reading does not prove the igniter heats correctly, because the sources we opened do not cover igniter operating values.

Safety first

A gas dryer combines mains electricity with a gas burner. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet, or switch off its breaker, before you open the access panel or touch any terminal. Shut off the gas supply at the valve before you work near the burner area. Fluke’s continuity guide says to always unplug the device or turn off the main circuit breaker before a continuity test, and to make sure any capacitors are safely discharged. If you smell gas at any point, leave the area and contact your gas utility. Work on gas lines and on the building wiring belongs to a licensed professional.

Quick answer

  • Unplug the dryer and shut off its gas supply before testing.
  • Disconnect the igniter from its harness so other wiring does not affect the reading.
  • Set the meter to continuity or the lowest ohms range, touch the probes together to confirm the meter works, then measure across the igniter’s two terminals.
  • OL with no beep means the igniter path is open. A reading near 0 Ω or a beep means the path is closed.
  • The sources we opened do not give a resistance figure for dryer igniters, so compare with the service data for your model.

How we chose

This guide is limited to one check: whether the igniter element forms a complete electrical path. We read three Fluke pages on continuity and fuse testing on 2026-10-27 and used their general method: de-energized component, isolated test, meter self-check, and reading interpretation. We did not find a source that describes dryer igniter resistance, burner timing or gas flow, so this guide does not cover those. We considered continuity and ohms checks and left out pressure, gas valve and control board diagnosis.

Gas dryers and electric dryers

Not every dryer has an igniter. A gas dryer uses a burner that must light before the drum heats. An electric dryer uses a heating element instead. Check the rating plate or the service label on your machine first. If your dryer is electric, the igniter steps here do not apply, and a heating element test is a better starting point. The listing for your model or its manual should state the heat source.

What you need

  • A digital multimeter with a continuity setting and a resistance (Ω) range.
  • Test leads in good condition, with the black lead in COM and the red lead in the VΩ jack.
  • Basic hand tools for the access panel, and a container for screws.
  • Your model number, so you can match the connector against the service information.

Step 1: Unplug and shut off the gas

Unplug the dryer, shut off the gas valve, and let the machine sit before you open it. Remove the access panel as described in your service information. Take a photo of the igniter connector and its position so you can reconnect it the same way.

Step 2: Prepare the meter

Turn the dial to continuity mode, or to the lowest ohms range if your meter has no continuity setting. Touch the probes together. Fluke’s fuse guide recommends this check because it confirms the meter responds before you rely on it. In continuity mode the meter should beep. In resistance mode the reading should be near zero.

Step 3: Isolate the igniter

Disconnect the igniter from the harness. Fluke’s continuity guide says the component should be isolated from other components in the circuit, because the reading should reflect that component alone. A reading taken with the igniter still wired in may include other paths.

Step 4: Measure across the igniter

Place one probe on each igniter terminal. Hold the probes steady and keep them clean. Note whether the meter beeps, whether the display shows OL, or whether it shows a number. If the reading moves while you hold the probes, check the contacts and try again.

Step 5: Read the result

Fluke’s continuity guide says a meter beeps when it detects a complete path, and the threshold varies by meter. Fluke’s explainer says most meters indicate continuity between 0 and 50 ohms. Its guide also gives an example on a 400.0 Ω range, where a meter typically beeps at 40 Ω or less. Check your meter’s manual for its exact threshold.

  • Beep or a reading near 0 Ω: the igniter path is complete. This does not prove the igniter glows or heats, so it is one check, not a full diagnosis.
  • OL with no beep: the path is open. Fluke describes this as the meter not beeping when the circuit is not complete.
  • A number between these two: record the value and compare it with the service data for your model. The sources we opened do not give a range for igniters, so do not assume a pass or fail from this number alone.

Step 6: Reconnect and check the machine

Turn the meter off, reconnect the igniter in the same order as your photo, and reinstall the panel. Restore the gas supply only after the panel is back in place, and follow your service information for leak checks. If the dryer still does not heat, the igniter may be fine and the fault may lie in the gas valve, the control board or the airflow. Those checks need a qualified technician if you are not trained for them.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Testing with the power on. Fluke says continuity testing should be done only when voltage is not present in the circuit.
  • Leaving the igniter in the harness. This can make a reading unreliable.
  • Treating a beep as a full pass. A closed path shows continuity only, not heat output.
  • Skipping the meter self-check. A meter that does not beep when its probes touch cannot give a valid result.

What we could not verify

  • The igniter resistance or continuity range for any dryer model. The sources we opened do not list it.
  • The igniter’s operating temperature, glow time and failure modes. These are not in the sources we opened.
  • Whether a particular error code means the igniter has failed. Error codes are set by each manufacturer.

FAQ

Can I test the igniter while it is installed?

A continuity check is more reliable with the igniter isolated. Testing in place can give a reading that includes other parts of the circuit.

My meter shows a low number. Is the igniter good?

A low closed reading shows a complete path only. Compare the value with your model’s service data before deciding.

Does an OL reading always mean a bad igniter?

OL means the meter sees an open path or a value above its range. Check the connector and the probe contact, then retest. If the reading stays open with the igniter isolated, the igniter is a likely fault.

Can I use a non-contact voltage tester instead?

A voltage tester does not measure the igniter’s path. Use a multimeter in continuity or ohms mode with the power off.

Should I replace the igniter if the test shows OL?

An OL result on an isolated igniter suggests a fault. Confirm the part number and the connector type for your model before buying a replacement.

Bottom line

Unplug the dryer, shut off the gas, isolate the igniter, and measure it in continuity or ohms mode. An open reading is a strong sign of a fault, while a closed reading only shows a complete path.

Related guides

Sources

  • Fluke, “A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter”, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity (opened 2026-10-27)
  • Fluke, “What is Continuity?”, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/electrical/what-is-continuity (opened 2026-10-27)
  • Fluke, “How to Check a Fuse with a Multimeter”, https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-check-fuse-with-multimeter (opened 2026-10-27)

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